As fashion week-goers began to slouch in their chairs, one slot in the schedule which gave them all a reason to stand up and tap their feet was Bianca Saunders. By demonstrating what a presentation can do, compared to the sometimes stagnant scenarios which can often be found throughout fashion month, the young designer boasted her heritage and eco-conscious mentality simultaneously.

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Its Your boy for @biancasaunders_ AW/20 PRESENTATION “VIDEOLIGHT” #lfw #mynewrapnameismodelboy

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One person who was able to experience that joyful morning but also spent the prior months among the madness is Jonas Sackey, former menswear design assistant for Bianca Saunders. Sitting down with Sackey to discuss the process behind the presentation, he begins by sharing what he was most proud of: “I was especially proud when working on toiles which were initially a development process of the vegan leather wire bags. When I first made the pattern in a nylon version, it grabbed Bianca’s attention and was essentially the avant-garde statement within her entire collection.” Over a few months, Sackey cemented a solid relationship with the designer, which lead to an understanding of her expectations from her staff and the brand.

The presentation itself consisted of loose tailoring, eco-friendly denim and crop tops, demonstrating Saunders’ individualistic approach to design. Sackey goes on to delve deeper into the influences of the collection: “Throughout the design process, there was a stigma within the collection from the mood boards within the studio that signifies black culture but specifically her heritage. By looking at the proportions of how clothes move on the body, she further started to interpret this through tailored and long silhouettes to capture the movement more.” Here Sackey is referring to the movement incorporated throughout the presentation.

Choreographed by Fashion East’s Saul Nash, the pieces bounced as the models integrated dance into the morning’s routine. When asked about how the movement aided in the comparison between a presentation and a runway show, Helena Fletcher, fashion assistant at 10 Magazine said: “Runway shows are the most efficient way of seeing a collection physically the fastest, but sometimes a presentation is a fantastic way to see a collection as it lets you see something in more detail, or in this case, in motion.”

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Having A Bashment Party| VideoLight AW20 VHS 🎞 . #biancasaunders

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The movement was introduced due to Saunders’ obsession with a particular video. Sackey explains: “What I felt tied the whole collection together was the VHS video of vintage dancehall that Bianca was obsessed with, and the regal manner in which she wanted the collection to be portrayed as.”

Even the crinkles in the clothes were inspired by the crinkles that appeared when Saunders copied the dancehall videos from VHS to digital. But you can’t have a boogie without a decent pair of shoes. As eyes scanned from top to bottom, they were left admiring moccasins in vibrant oranges and blues, courtesy of designer Hernan Guardamagna.

In an interview, the shoe designer explains how the collaboration worked: “Bianca and I had been chatting about the idea of collaborating since we met at RCA. We met a couple of times before we started working on the shoes to define the style, silhouette and materials. Once I understood what she wanted and liked, it was very easy for me to define the shoes and start with the making.” The designer, who graduated from the Royal College of Art, was able to use rubber soles units that he found in an Argentinean footwear industry where he used to work a few years ago. Guardamagna explains further: “Those soles had been discarded and I thought to give them a second chance one day, and this project was the perfect opportunity to do so. That’s how the shoes came to live.”

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BIANCA SAUNDERS-VIDEOLIGHT AW20|| Look 9 @eerrssaattzz . Shrug Jumper, Double Waisted Joggers and “Remember This” scarf. Shoe collab: @​hernanguardamagna . Photographer: @silviadraz Stylist|Consultant: @karen_binnszzzz Lead Hair Stylist: @SapongJohnnie Hair Stylist: ​@stefanomazzoleni_hair M​ake Up Artist: @​PorschePoon Casting Director: ​@naj_li Set Designer: ​@YLanLucas Choreographer: @​SaulNash Show Music: ​@CKTRL Managing Director: @​chiaralafour Backstage Catering: @yvesaunders Interns: @_megtoal @jonx1998 @rafaelafurnival @niovelouca Thank you to: ​@deciem​ ​@sebago_world​ @burlingtonsocks​ @iskodenim ​@purplep​r

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With an eco-conscious mindset carried throughout the collection, the shoes were the cherry on top to complete Saunders’ vision. Guardamagna echoes that view: “Responsible sourcing and sustainability played an important role in the collaboration, as the shoes were made with existing materials, most of them were excess of the footwear industry.”

He continues: “For instance, I created a new sole unit hand-stitching a leather band to a rubber sole unit discarded from the industry. For the lateral leather band, a sporty twist on a classic welt, and some of the uppers, I used veg tan leather provided by the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale. The work they do promoting sustainable veg-tan leather is extraordinary. For other uppers, we recycled discarded leather from the local accessories industry, a place I got in contact with as they were manufacturing the bags for Bianca.”

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VIDEOLIGHT AW20| It was a pleasure to collaborate with fellow @royalcollegeofart alumni and sustainable accessory designer @hernanguardamagna, Hernan made the dance-ready square-toed moccasins with draped, recycled uppers. Photos by @dominika_scheibinger . Thank you @burlingtonsocks . @ChiaraLafour – Managing Director @karen_binnszzzz – Stylist / Consultant @SapongJohnnie – Lead Hair Stylist using LEONOR GREYL @THEWALLGROUP @stefanomazzoleni_hair – Hair Stylist @PorschePoon – Make Up Artist @naj_li – Casting Director @YLanLucas – Set Designer @SaulNash – Choreographer Sound – @CKTRL #biancasaunders #rca #fashionshoes #hernánguardamagna @purplepr

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As with most runway shows and presentations, there is more going on than what initially meets the eye. This specific one played with movement, tailoring and colour – all the while being environmentally conscious. The final take away thoughts?

Guardamagna says: “ I think it was a great presentation, the way the collection was shown was very clever, it truly recreated the vibe of the inspiration behind it. The models danced very effortlessly and that felt natural, not forced or imposed. The crowd who attended the presentation had a fun time on an early Sunday morning, something quite unexpected for a fashion presentation.”

Helena Fletcher adds: “A fantastic way to start a morning and I’m excited, as always, to see what she does next.”

The post A reflection on the Bianca Saunders AW20 presentation appeared first on Shift London.